Petrelë

Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) reopened in 2017 as a pedestrian space paved with stone from across Albania; the redesign won the 2018 European Prize for Urban Public Space. Odhise Paskali’s Skanderbeg statue (1968) shares it with the National Historical Museum, the Opera and the Et’hem Bey Mosque.

The New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri) has been trading around Avni Rustemi Square since 1931. Rebuilt in 2017, its covered hall sells fruit, vegetables, spices and Albanian specialities, next to a restored fish market and a corner for traditional crafts, with cafés and restaurants all around.

Shëngjergj is a mountain village about 40 km east of Tirana, on the Erzen river and ringed by Mali me Gropa (literally ‘mountain of pits’). Rich in springs, lakes and caves, it draws walkers to its waterfall, castle ruins and Shpella e Valit (Vali Cave).

Albania’s foremost stage institution, the National Theatre of Opera, Ballet and Folk Ensemble was founded in 1953 and sits on Skanderbeg Square. It stages opera, ballet and symphony concerts from world and Albanian repertoire; check the programme.

Under communism Blloku was off-limits to ordinary citizens and reserved for the ruling elite; Enver Hoxha’s residence still stands here. After the regime fell it became a favourite with young people, and today it is packed with restaurants, bars and clubs.

Pedestrianised in 2011, Murat Toptani street leads past Tirana Castle, the Academy of Sciences, the old National Library and Albania’s first public garden. The walk ends at Ura e Tabakëve (the Tanners’ Bridge), with cafés and art galleries on the way.